I've heard that condensation can be a problem, in plywood hives, is this the case with the Drawhive?
Condensation can form on the inner walls of plywood hives, in cold weather, with solid floors. This is because the glue lines make the material less porous than solid wood. However, with mesh floors, which are now in almost universal use due to varroa, the problem does not seem to occur. Perhaps the denser moist air falls out of the hive. Also, the Drawhive is mostly double walled, so should provide better insulation.
How durable is exterior grade plywood?
The durability of plywood is determined by the quality of the veneers and the glue lines. Obviously, the rot resistance of the veneer timber will determine this aspect of the finished product. The best grade, the so called ‘marine ply’, utilises durable timber throughout, usually mahogany. This is very expensive.
Cheaper grades, of the sort held by timber yards and DIY outlets in the UK, are usually made with less expensive tropical hardwoods and have thicker core veneers. These are perfectly adequate for beehives, if treated with preservative on the outside and edges. The veneers are usually bonded with phenolic resin glue. This is extremely durable and classed as ‘weather and boil proof ’. Providing the manufacturer doesn't skimp on the glue spread, the bond is very strong.
Failure in exterior ply is usually due to the inner veneers. Large knots, which soak up the glue, overlapping veneers and voids, all detract from the bond and are signs of cheaper material.
About 7.5 to 9 kg. (16½ to 20 lb ) complete with bottom rack, depending on the model. An average hive of bees, with floor, roof etc., will weigh approximately 9 % more.
Why isn't there a handle to pull it open?
For the same reason you can't just lift off a super. Until the propolis seal is broken, with the hive tool, the opening panel is stuck fast. Once it's cracked open, it is easy to pull out by holding the ends. It also simpler and looks neater.
Why isn't the Drawhive in solid wood?
It would be lighter in weight, but there are two reasons for using plywood.
Firstly, shrinkage problems. Especially with deeper brood boxes, such as Dadant,
changes in moisture content could upset the bee-
Secondly, production costs. There are different thicknesses of material in a Drawhive.
It would require a lot of machining to produce in solid wood. Whereas plywood is
easily available in wide panels of the required thickness and doesn't require comb
joints. For self-
Is it necessary to have bees which don't use much propolis?
No, this brood box works with your average bees, at least in the UK. Bees will, of course, pack every corner and crevice with propolis. They seal the opening end panel and, in British National hives, where the frame lug shoes abut the sides of the outer case. Levering the end panel with a hive tool, breaks the seal and the inner chamber then slides out easily. It is no more difficult than releasing a crown board.
Of the beekeepers in the UK who have used the Drawhive, only one has had a problem
that I am aware of. It turned out, that with his top bee-
Providing the bee-
How do you deal with swarming?
See the page on Management. The average beekeeper is less likely to lose swarms when using the Drawhive. Because it is so easy to make inspections, there is less tendency to put it off, particularly with those massive colonies.
© Michael Vesty 2006 all rights reserved.
